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俄罗斯巧克力“全是国产的”？不懂别乱说_我的网站

一 |     BRUSSELS -- The European Union began taking steps on Thursday to limit the impact of the war between Israel and Hamas on the bloc, amid heightened security tensions after a firebomb attack on a Berlin synagogue and killings in Belgium and France by suspected Islamist extremists.Spain, which currently holds the EU's rotating presidency, activated a crisis mechanism to speed up decision-making and coordination between the 27 member countries, the bloc's institutions and major partners like the United Nations or the United States.Officials from across the EU have expressed concerns about a rise in antisemitic attacks, radicalization online, the use of encrypted messaging services by extremists, and the need to speed up the deportation of people who might pose a public danger.But calls for an increase in security across the board are creating deep unease as the solutions being discussed could undermine free movement and the right to assemble in Europe.Italy is introducing border checks to counter a possible rise in tensions over the Israel-Hamas war. Denmark and Sweden are too, due to what they say is an “Islamist terrorist threat.” France intends to keep checks in place until at least May 2024, citing “new terrorist threats and external borders situation.”More police have been deployed in Belgium, France and Germany.EU foreign policy chief Josep Borrell believes part of the solution to Europe's security woes must involve the bloc helping diplomatically and financially to bring an end to years of conflict between Israel and the Palestinians.“We have learned from history that the most difficult decisions are always taken when we are on the edge of the abyss. I believe that is where we are now: on the edge of the abyss,” Borrell told EU lawmakers on Wednesday.“When I hear Muslim religious authorities speaking the language of inter-religious conflict and explicitly stating that Europe is a party to this conflict, I feel that the storm clouds are looming,” he said.Still, not all of Europe’s challenges are directly linked to the war.Earlier on Thursday, Sweden hosted a meeting of ministers from eight countries, among them Germany, Belgium and France, focused on how to handle incidents where people burn the Muslim holy book, the Quran.Prosecutors are trying to establish whether that was a key motive for a Tunisian man to shoot three Swedes in Brussels on Monday, killing two of them, ahead of a Belgium-Sweden soccer match in the capital.While the Quran burnings are not directly linked to the conflict between Israel and Hamas, they are a sign of rising tensions between religious and other communities in Europe.The war that began Oct. 7 has become the deadliest of five Gaza wars for both sides. More than 5,000 people have been killed in Israel and Gaza. Nearly 12,500 Palestinians have been wounded, and over 200 people in Israel taken hostage.“We have to address multiple impacts from the continuing crisis in the Middle East" in the EU, European Commission Vice-President Margaritis Schinas said.“This entails the protection of our Jewish communities, but also the protection against a generalized climate of Islamophobia that has no place in our society,” he told reporters in Luxembourg, where EU interior ministers were meeting.Pro-Palestinian rallies have been held in several European cities since the war. France has banned them. Germany has also promised to take tougher action against Hamas, which is already on the EU’s list of terrorist organizations.Chancellor Olaf Scholz told the German parliament that local authorities “must not allow gatherings … at which it must be feared that antisemitic slogans will be shouted, that people’s deaths will be glorified and everything we can’t accept here.”In France, the Palace of Versailles — a major tourist attraction — and three airports were evacuated for security reasons and temporarily closed Wednesday. The incidents were the latest in a spate of evacuations in the past five days, and the French government is threatening to fine or jail prank callers.They followed the killing of a teacher in northern France on Friday by a suspected Islamist extremist.French Interior Minister Gerland Darmanin noted that two foreigners were behind the recent attacks in Belgium and France, and he insisted that long-delayed reforms of EU asylum rules must be put in place.Europe must “manage our borders, register people and conduct the security interviews that are necessary before every asylum request,” he told reporters.The EU has agreements with Turkey and Tunisia to persuade them to prevent migrants reaching Europe — and take them back if they do get through — but they are not working well. Other deals, with Egypt notably, are planned. Only around one in four people refused entry ever return home. ___John Leicester in Paris and Geir Moulson in Berlin contributed to this report.。    之前科普中国介绍过巧克力的制作方法（戳此回顾），当时曾提到，传统的巧克力生产离不开只生长在热带地区的可可（Theobroma cacao）树。

二 | 这样的话，在热带地区之外，其他国家是不是就无法生产巧克力了呢？当然不是，我国就长期依靠进口获取可可豆——巧克力最核心的原材料——来生产巧克力。而且，从热带地区进口可可豆也不是唯一的出路，我们国家甚至已经实现了可可豆的出口。

三 | 下面我们就来讲讲这段巧克力的故事。1、从可可到可可豆可可原产于美洲热带地区的潮湿雨林，它需要潮湿、温暖的气候，也需要特殊的传粉昆虫。按照传统的分类方法，可可属于梧桐科，而在参考分子生物学证据编制的新分类系统（APG系统）中，旧梧桐科被合并到了锦葵科中，成为了梧桐亚科，可可也就因此和棉花、椴树拉近了“户口”上的关系。

四 | 作为一种乔木，可可的植株不算高大，具有“老茎生花”现象，花朵看上去就像是直接从树干上长出来的，结出的果实也同样是挂在树干上。和不起眼的乳白色小花比起来，可可的果实堪称巨大，每个都能有几百克重，外形像橄榄球，内部有十几粒种子。每粒种子外面都包裹着白色、胶质的“果肉”。新鲜的时候可可“果肉”味道酸甜，有点像山竹，虽然也挺好吃，但这些“果肉”在加工制作巧克力时却派不上用场。可可的果实收获以后，会经过后熟、发酵、干燥等工序，最终只留下种子，这就是成品可可豆。

五 | 2、从进口到出口从果实的采收到可可豆成品的诞生，这整个加工过程，都在可可产区完成。目前，全世界最主要的可可豆生产国是西非的科特迪瓦，产量约占全球产量的40%还多，排在它后面的还有加纳、印度尼西亚、多米尼加、喀麦隆等国。也就是说，目前可可豆的生产并不集中在可可的原产地热带美洲，这种植物已经引种到全球许多热带国家和地区。

六 | 我国华南也有一些地区足够温暖潮湿，可供可可生长，这些地方也引进了可可作为经济作物种植。海南就种植了可可。在二十世纪八十年代，海南的可可产量已经很可观了，后来由于各种因素，这里的可可商业化种植一直处于低谷状态，年产量只有一二十吨。这个量可远远不能满足国内巧克力生产的需要，因此绝大多数的国产巧克力品牌，原料都依靠进口。把可可豆、可可粉、可可脂等各种可可原料加起来，我国每年要进口十几万吨的巧克力原材料。不过，在多方努力下，我国于2020年10月首次向比利时出口了海南可可豆，证明了国产可可豆的品质已经受到国际认可。

七 | 不过当时的出口总量只有500千克，在完成了历史性突破的同时，也从另一个角度说明了国产可可豆的生产现状。3、从可可豆到巧克力世界各地的巧克力制造商买来可可豆以后，会把它们清洗、去壳、烘焙，然后把种仁拿去研磨，得到细腻的“巧克力原浆”。“巧克力原浆”再经过分离、过滤等工序，就能得到可可粉和可可脂。

八 | 我们平时吃的黑巧克力，主要原料就是可可粉和可可脂；而白巧克力就只用可可脂，不加可可粉。

九 | 在很多巧克力的包装上，都会标示着一个百分数，这个数字指的是巧克力中可可豆成分的比例，数字越大，可可豆占比越高，糖、奶等成分就越少，吃起来也就越苦。等一下，既然最后要把可可粉和可可脂混在一起，为什么不直接用可可豆做巧克力呢？其实，最早的巧克力的确是这么做的，只不过吧……不那么好吃。在可可的原产地，也就是美洲热带地区，原住民们最早是用磨碎的可可豆，加上玉米、辣椒、蜂蜜等原料一起制作饮料的。这饮料味道又甜又苦又辣，喝之前还要打出泡沫。有一种观点认为，巧克力（chocolate）一词，就是音译自美洲原住民语言中的“苦水”或“打出泡沫的水”。而可可豆直接磨成的粉，也就是这种巧克力饮料的原料，味道是又苦又酸涩的，如果今天的巧克力还是这个味道，恐怕很难流行起来。

十 | 那么巧克力又是怎么“进化”的呢？这就要等到可可豆从美洲原产地漂洋过海传到欧洲之后了。1815年，荷兰人豪尔顿（Coenraad Johannes van Houten）发明了可可豆碱化工艺，可以增加香气、降低苦味。1819年，瑞士人凯雅（Francois Louis Cailler）发明了固体巧克力，巧克力从液体饮料逐步向现代巧克力靠近。不过，当时的固体巧克力与现代巧克力比起来，口感还显得很粗糙。1828年，前面说的荷兰人豪尔顿又发明了一种机器，可以把可可粉和可可脂分开。并且他发现，先把可可粉和可可脂分离开，然后再把它们混合起来，这样制成的巧克力会更加香滑细腻。到了十九世纪后期，又经过雀巢、瑞士莲等公司的改进，现代巧克力就此出现。说了那么多，总结起来就是：现代巧克力发源于数千年前的美洲，诞生于十九世纪的欧洲。直到今天，全世界最知名的那些巧克力生产商中，欧洲公司依然占多数。由于可可只能在热带地区生长，所以不管是外国品牌还是我国品牌，基本都需要从热带国家和地区进口可可原材料。但在巧克力的生产过程中，其原材料可可豆的生产与最终巧克力的加工生产环节是分离的。所以，不产可可豆的地区，也可以获得原材料，生产出大众喜爱的美味巧克力。参考文献：[1]朱自慧. 世界可可业概况与发展海南可可业的建议[J]. 热带农业科学, 2003, 23(3): 28-33.[2]赵溪竹, 赖剑雄, 李付鹏, 等. 我国可可产业发展现状与前景[J]. 中国热带农业, 2018 (5): 4-5.作者 | 吴昌宇审核 | 顾   垒 首都师范大学生命科学学院副教授。

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